Bandhani, the love of Gujarat

Have you heard of a whole line of textiles being made with the most significant tool being fingers and nails? Gujarat’s Bandhani is that line of textile. As much as you might think that the name Bandhani should relate to something being tied up, you’re not there yet but are very close!

A common Bandhani Design; Source: Gujarat Tourism

Bandhani is an art process to make textiles out of the same. It’s a skilled process that involves dyeing fabric. The fabric is then tightly tied at different and multiple points. The tied fabric is basically making various knots in the fabric, however temporarily. The tying is where the use of fingers and fingernails come in handy. Once the cloth is tied, using the fingernails, the cloth is plucked out in order to make knots. This ensures the fabric to form different patterns and eye-catching designs once the knots are opened and the cloth is spread out.

Bandhani has been a part of Gujarat since the beginning of time. Later, Rajasthan too adopted the style and added some Rajasthani twists which led to the creation of Kutchi Bandhani.

Bandhani has become so popular and in demand that different colours have different meanings and significance. Not just with the colours but Bandhani and its textile designs have respective amounts of importance in different communities as well as religions. This is one of the things that keeps all the people, communities and religions united and as one with similar interests in bandhani.

Just as everything evolved over the years with the genius minds that the world gave shelter to, it was the same with the dyers and bandhani. The evolution of designs and patterns of this tie and dye technique has been remarkable.

Since Bandhani hails from Gujarat, the work was mostly carried out by the Khatri community. People from Saurashtra and Kutchh of the community were the exclusive carriers. The final products had different classifications after the cloth opened. They were Chandrakhani, Chowkidaar, Shikari, Ambadaal, Khombhi, Ghar Chola and a lot more that keeps the list going.

The dyeing process dates back to 4000 B.C., to the Indus Valley Civilisation. However, Bandhani dots were first found in the 6th century. It was a painting depicting the life of Buddha. Now, much less evidence there is as to how those dots went from the wall painting in the 6th century to textiles, Bandhani sarees were worn in a royal marriage at the time of Bana Bhatt’s Harshacharita. Bandhani design was believed to bring good luck to the bride in the future. Then, bandhani designs were just dots. It was later that dyers experimented with different designs, patterns and techniques to create the vibrant and awe-striking bandhani prints we see today.

The designs and patterns of Bandhani are eye-appealing; Source: Indian Crafts Study

The use of nails and fingers in tying and dyeing Bandhani; Source: Khamir

Different colours and patterns are significant in Bandhani; Source: 25HourNews