Dhabas: The Highway Food Culture of India

Dhabas are a go-to spot for many of us when we crave desi north Indian food from outside. From truckers' rest stops at the Grand Truck Road to the distinct culinary style of the Indian subcontinent, dhabas have come a long way. Let us explore their journey.

Dhabas originated as roadside eateries along the GT Road. Image Source: Restaurant India

It is nearly impossible to tell when exactly the first dhabas came up. Assuming that they trace their roots to the roadside eateries, we can say that the culture of dhaba might have been around for many centuries. But there is something very specific to the style of eatery we call dhaba. These joints came up along the large stretch of a very ancient Indian road connecting Bangladesh on one hand and Afghanistan on the other. It was renamed the Grand Trunk Road during the British times, but the road has been around since the Mauryan period. Along this road, in-land trade of both small and large scale took place during the ancient, medieval, and modern periods. Following the independence and the partition of the Indian subcontinent, this impressive highway has lost its former connectivity and trans-border trade exchanges, but its importance has not ceased to exist.

The dhabas as we know them today, became noticeable from the twentieth century along the north-western frontier, although some suggest that they were present from as early as during the Mughal period. They became popular as truckers' rest stops along the GT Road. The dhaba embodies the culture of truckers who travel long distances and stop at places for temporary rest and filling food.

A majority of these truck drivers happen to be Punjabis and the decor often reflects the attempt of the owners to make these weary travellers feel at home. Traditional dhabas are known for their rustic charm and outlook, unpretentious ambience, and a casual atmosphere that is intended to make the customers feel at home.

The geographical context that birthed the dhabas also explains why north Indian- specifically Punjabi- cuisine and culinary style dominate them. The dishes found in a typical dhaba menu range from simple dal makhani to spicy and flavour-some butter chicken or kadhai paneer, cooked mostly in tandoor style. At a wood-fired oven, flatbreads of different kinds like rotis, kulchas and naan, would be made available, to suit customer demands. Top it with a glass of refreshing lassi i.e., the classic Punjabi beverage*,* and you have a powerful meal to last long hours on the highway. Traditionally, the owner would also lay out charpai beds for the tired truckers and other travellers to rest.

Dhaba food is influenced by Punjabi cuisine. Image Source: Dineout.

It is hardly surprising therefore that most of the dhabas today, even the fanciest ones would sometimes be decorated resembling the truckers' culture. So when people go to eat in these places, they get an essence of the authentic culture, from food to the seating arrangements.

Yet, in most cases, the dhaba has also undergone profound changes. Far from the highways, these establishments have upgraded themselves, moving away from their authentic setup. Charpais have given way to comfortable tables and chairs, outdoor settings have been compromised for an air-conditioned experience and the rustic decor has been replaced with an obvious aesthetic to pay tribute to its Punjabi origins. But the appeal of the dhabas and their rich, smoky and spicy food continues to keep the dhaba culture thriving, especially in North India, even as the ancient highway that started the tradition has lost its former glory.