Serais: The Mediaeval Comforts for Travellers

Trade and commerce have always been tied up with travelling since ancient times. Much of the communication system in mediaeval India included the well-known routes through which traders and travellers gained access to far-away markets promoting the national and international exchange of merchandise.

The Grand Trunk Road Source: thelogicalindian.com

Imagine travelling on horses and bullock carts with no shelter to stop at night and being constantly exposed to the danger of being attacked by bandits or wild animals. Those were the scenarios of travel during medieval times.

Of course, there was some administrative security provided by each head of the particular area, but often they were either not enough or sometimes the local administrative officials also were in league with the bandits. But then came a ruler who took up the mantle to seriously reform these safety and shelter issues that hindered the potential of commerce and prosperity.

Farid – the son of a Jagirdar from Bihar who single-handedly killed a tiger and gained the title of Sher Shah. He then went on to become the ruler of the revived Sur dynasty and was crowned Sher Shah Suri. He was one of the rulers who was a great administrator as well as a judicious reformer.

The best way to attract or encourage merchants for flourishing and retainable markets is to pay attention to their comforts through the hospitality offered and total security during the to and fro transits. Sher Shah implemented this belief to the fullest, by first constructing grand roads connecting each commercially important and convenient place on the map of his empire.

The next step towards his agenda of civilian-oriented reforms and boosting was to establish fortified serais or travel inns at every 2 kurohs or 4 miles on these improvised roads. These serais provided all the essential comforts of food, bed, safe stay and even fodder for the animals of conveyance like horses, bullocks, etc.

It is amazing to imagine that the 1500 km long Grand Road constructed from the Indus to Sonargaon in Bengal is even today the oldest and longest highway in Asia. Yes, we are talking about the famous Grand Trunk Road, which during Sher Shah’s time was known as Sadak-e-Azam or Baadshahi Sadak. 3 other similar main highways were constructed to facilitate easy and secure travel for all visitors, civilians, as well as traders.

Dr K R Qanungo, the historian in his work ‘The Mughal Empire from Babar to Aurangazeb’ says about these roads “as the veritable arteries of the empire, diffusing new life into the hitherto benumbed limbs.”

Among Sher Shah’s greatest achievements were the 1700 Serais he established with all the necessary amenities for the travellers of every section of medieval society. Special attention was paid to the differences in the type of food between Muslims and Brahmins. Separate cooks were appointed to satisfy the needs of both. The choice of provisions was also offered to Brahmins, who preferred to have self-cooked food.

The serais were also unique because they were an integral part of the communication network optimised by Sher Shah. The serais had the double identity of Dak Chowkis or nodes of the mounted postal system or the pioneering venture of the horse courier system. The traders and travellers were also involved in the conveyance of letters. Though a network of the postal system meant for only royalties or administrative purposes existed in every kingdom before Sher Shah, he was the first after many centuries to provide a network for civilians too.

Each of these comfort establishments was maintained and secured under a specifically appointed trusted custodian known as the Shahna. He was in charge of the safety and comfort of the travellers, their goods, conveyance, and associated administrative duties and requirements of the establishment.

The expenses of the inn were collected from the allotted rent-free lands around the Serai. Every Serai had a mosque and muezzin paid as well as maintained through the self-sustainable lands.

Owing to the continuous passage of traders and travellers, gradually the local villagers found potential customers for their goods through the serai. Thus, they began flocking around the establishments creating profitable mandis for selling their indigenous products. The mandis gave birth to Qasba and became centres of cultural exchange and the development of handicrafts.

The increase in trade exchange revenue recorded in his reign is proof enough of the success of the Serai system. It was so effective that the next ruler Islam Shah ordered to promote further by constructing a serai between 2 Sher Shah’s travel inns.

Abbas Khan Sarwani the court historian of Emperor Akbar, in his Tarik-i-Sher Shahi (History of Sher Shah written in Persian – 1580 CE) describes Sher Shah's orders about the Serai -- "whoever came to the serai was to be served with food out of government money according to one's rank and his pony was given grain and drink".

The serais were constructed as sturdy and fortified structures that could defend even an enemy attack. Sher Shah’s serai was the first state-funded establishment for civilian comfort and safety. To think that the serais were minimal establishments meant for only temporary stays would be a gravely misinformed notion. Some of the serais existing even today refute its temporary outlook.

Sher Shah’s serais are the precursors to the modern government-funded guest houses built in every taluk of our country. But, unfortunately, it is not meant for civilians now. It has reverted to providing comfort and safety only for administrative VIPs and known personalities of our times.

A Serai at Lahore built by Sher Shah Suri Source: “The Silk Roads: Highways of Culture and Commerce” by Vadime Elisseeff